Friday, 10 June 2011

r is for rain

In Guyana, we don’t have four seasons; Life is easier as we have two summers: a wet one and a dry one (officially Rainy season & Dry season). In actual fact, in Mahdia there is never a truly dry season; Even in the dry season it normally rains twice a day, at around 5AM and then at about 5PM, so we can easily rely on the rain water for everything. This is wonderful, because it works like natural AC, bringing temperatures down quite a lot. Especially at night the rainy season can be pretty cool.

When it rains it pours, especially if you are in the rainforest, as the name suggests…

[Extension of RH Hotel, the only one in Mahdia - When it rains, you can't see 2 feet ahead of you]

The energy with which the rain falls here reminds me of the Atlantic Ocean back home on a stormy winter’s day. It is so powerful and godly, making me feel tiny and defenceless and at the same time grateful for the chance to experience such intense beauty.

I love falling asleep to the sound of rain and thunder, as well as the random brightness that illuminates the house when lightning strikes. 

Waking up to the loud thunder is scary and really makes for the perfect cuddle moment.

It has been too much lately and some villages and towns are flooded. Mahdia is on the top of hills, so it’s almost impossible to flood. I heard a theory about this the other day whereby the Patamona tribe (the local tribe) were the weakest, so they always built their houses on high spots, borderingthe savannah and the forest, so that they could easily run and hide away in the lush forest if they were attacked. For that reason, the Patamona are more fortunate when it comes to excessive rain.

I haven’t read the papers yet, but hope the situation doesn’t get too bad and I also hope food is getting to the villages suffering with these floods.


Thursday, 9 June 2011

W is for Warning

Inspired by a book I read years ago, by Juan José Millás entitled The Alphabetical Disorder (wildly free translation of El Orden Alfabético), I've decided that this blog will no longer follow the alphabetical order; we’ll follow our heart and talk about what moves us at a given moment. So, eventually the whole alphabet will be here, but till then, each letter shall land here in its own order.
By the way, you should grab yourselves a copy of this creative and surreal world, narrated by a teenager, in a very enticing book.

Wednesday, 11 May 2011

M is for Mahdia


My Mahd Little Mahdia is the Administrative Centre for Region 8, Potaro/Siparuni. It started by being a simple “landing”, which is a place where miners gather to stock up for their camps, sell gold and have some fun. 
Just the other day I spoke to Mr Fredericks, who did some mining here in the 70’s; In those days this place was literally a landing, with only 1 trail and some stellings (stalls).

Many people come, set up mining camps, invest all they have and expect the best. Life in the backdam (out of town mining camps, where all you see are clearings, deep pits filled with water of different colours, big tents made of tree trunks and tarpaulin, 4x4 vans, caterpillars, bulldozers and men in rubber boots) is hard and intense; there is no such thing as a holiday. So people tend to spend a couple of months there and then head back home with their money.

Notwithstanding, upon leaving the backdam with a pile of money, there is a tendency to spend some wild time at the landing, ie, Mahdia. Normally this involves lots of investment in drinks and lady-fun. Money flies away… and so it’s better to head back to the backdam for some more time before visiting the wife (hopefully still…) and kids.

Truth be said, many miners are focused on their aims in life and manage it in an efficient manner. There are men that came with the intention of spending a year and making enough money to build up their family house and ended up staying for over 12 years, because they had children and those children are now studying in private schools.
So the backdam can be brill, although it’s quite a gamble.

In Mahdia people move at the same rhythm as gold can be found, ie unexpectedly. If you are planning on opening a store, for instance, there is no telling what will sell, nor which will be the best day of the week. Everything comes in from Parika or Georgetown by road, which involves over between 7 to 10 hours of a rough ride on a bumpy red-road trail. This causes prices to be double or more the shelf price in Georgetown.

What do we have around here?
- A district hospital with the friendliest staff in the world. The building is new, but equipment is not amazing; you need to go to Georgetown for an X-Ray for example.
- RDC compound – The Regional Democratic Council is the Administrative body. Here you have the Department of Education, the Board Room, the Accounts Section and Personnel Section
- A Nursery school, a Primary school and a Secondary School. Most of my time is split between the primary school and the Department of Education.
- Shops/Stalls/Restaurants/Bars – Lots of liming and drinking spots on every road/trail.
- A hotel with an amazing swimming pool. Again unexpected. And it’s brilliant to see the changes as when I first arrived you could not use the swimming pool without being filmed by men and listening to a lot of nonsense (and you know I don’t take it on). Now things are changing and some Sundays are pretty normal, ie, I see girls in swimsuits and bikinis! So obviously I’ve been getting mine out too – but only when there are more girls around, because it does get intensely awkward sometimes!
- GGMC – Guyana Geology & Mines Commission
- GECOM – Guyana Elections Commission
- Post Office – Post arrives and leaves Mahdia once a week. It can take quite a while, as you can imagine, but most things do arrive, and I’m sure that the ones that fail to arrive get “misplaced” upon arrival in country. Our Post Master (known as PM) is a super star and calls people when he sees them on the road and knows they have post.
- Police Station – My neighbours actually, so it couldn’t get safer!
Ok folks, made this list off the top of my head so I’m pretty sure I am missing out on some major things…

What does it look like? See with your own 2 eyes:
Eagle Mountain as seen from Mahdia
Main road. If you turn left, you'll get to Campbelltown, the Amerindian village
The air strip - TransGuyana and Air Services fly here
This place is definitely worth a visit and if you drive yourself up with a cruiser, even better, as you will be able to visit the Denham Bridge, aka Garraway Stream, check out the Hydro Power station that is being rehabilitated (UK equipment from the 1950s), take a look at Salbora falls and more. When you come, let me know, it’ll certainly be a weekend to remember ;)

Mahdia is where my heart is. Mahdia is home.
(This post is dedicated to Phil & Bill)

Tuesday, 22 March 2011

M is for Marvellous Minibus



The best way to travel within Guyana is definitely the minibus. For those of you who haven’t been in the Caribbean, delete the bus image right away and exchange it for a picture of a Toyota Hiace.



They all have wild sound systems and music is always flowing full blast. You’ll normally hear dancehall, soca, but not all is profanity! I know some minibus drivers who are very religious and active church goers, so they play religious versions of the same vibe. Interesting, really!
Minibuses are magical, I’m certain of it! There’s no way we at home could do what they here do with these vans.

Friday, 25 February 2011

K is for Kaieteur

coming soon!



j is for jaguar

Worth more than a thousand words, you must watch the BBC programme The Lost Land of the Jaguar.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/sn/tvradio/programmes/jaguar/

Guyana, I love you x

I is for interviews

(to be continued, as soon as I actually interview people :))
hang in there, it will be worth it ;)